Valve Clearance Experience - Need Help


Jokeshopbeard

Jokeshopbeard

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So, finally got round to adjusting my valve clearances this weekend, but I'm sure they're still not right. Hoping someone here who's done the job will have some further advice on this one...

First off, adjusted them to 0.007" Intake, 0.008" Exhaust, started her up and decided instantly that wasn't right, the valve train was noisy as hell!!

So, took off the rocker cover and started again, only this time adjusting to 0.006" Intake, 0.007" Exhaust. This was a lot better straight off, but after warming the car up, the valve train is definitely noisier than before!!


Just far more of a tick-tick-tick on idle - far from the desired result.


The only thing I'm thinking is that the car had been sitting overnight in temperatures of -4, so I'm not sure if i should have warmed the car up and let it cool a little before starting this job (as instructions say the cylinder head should be at less than 100 oC).


Is there anything else that should be taken into consideration or that I may have missed as part of this job? Any advice/experiences appreciated guys...
 
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Yeah, followed that guide exactly thanks olly.

Make sure when you get round to doing the job you've got extra feeler guages as the ones taht came with those kits only go down to 0.008 - I had to go buy another set!!

On the plus side though the locknut adjustment tool is great, thought it was gonna be a 2 man job but easy using that tool!
 
You have to do it COLD. I dont think -4 degrees C is a problem...

I wish I could do mine myself. No tool :(
 
Honda valvetrain is noisy by design, so many times i thought my engine was done lol (i panic a lot) i personally have mine at 0.007" Intake, 0.008" Exhaust
 
It was slightly noisy before I adjusted the valve clearances, I thought adjusting would make it smoother/less noisy though?

Only now its noisier!?!
 
Jokeshopbeard said:
Yeah, followed that guide exactly thanks olly.

Make sure when you get round to doing the job you've got extra feeler guages as the ones taht came with those kits only go down to 0.008 - I had to go buy another set!!

On the plus side though the locknut adjustment tool is great, thought it was gonna be a 2 man job but easy using that tool!
Click to expand...


shame they didnt list the feeler guage sizes in the advert,

The crank pulley tool is damn handy too for doing cambelts etc, much better than my old homemade one :nice:
 
i know they say on misubishi engines the valves wear the valve seat so in turn make the valve gap smaller. So you would get more noise when you done the clearences. Dont know if hondas do the same thing
 
HRT said:
i know they say on misubishi engines the valves wear the valve seat so in turn make the valve gap smaller. So you would get more noise when you done the clearences. Dont know if hondas do the same thing
Click to expand...

Would this mean that the valve clearance should therefore be adjusted based on this fact?

Would the clearance need to be smaller or greater to reduce noise?
 
Jokeshopbeard said:
Would this mean that the valve clearance should therefore be adjusted based on this fact?

Would the clearance need to be smaller or greater to reduce noise?
Click to expand...

Completley irrelevant since the valve is closed when the piston your working on is at TDC. Your making the gap between the rockers correct so that its opening the valves an equal distance per cylinder!

use 6thou intake 7thou exhaust.

LMAs make most of the noise on Bseries engines, factory change is listed at 45k n most b's but rarely is this done.

Also dont confuse the sound of the injectors ticking with the valvetrain. And your engine will be noisier when you engines cold... dont make the mistake of running thick oil if your in the UK, 5w or 10w max. 5w is best in these conditions and climate.
 
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£100 @ Honda....... done!!!

Mine was much quiter but its still relitivly noisey.

Don't think you can really get away from that.
 
How about replacing the LMA's? I take it that's a cam's out job, would the engine need to be re-timed after doing that job?
 
Also, would LMA's be the culprit as the engine has only become noisier since setting the valve clearances?
 
Jokeshopbeard said:
How about replacing the LMA's? I take it that's a cam's out job, would the engine need to be re-timed after doing that job?
Click to expand...

Correct, cam out jobby and theyre not cheap. Of course, timing would need to be set at 16d btdc :nice:

Double check your clearences after youve set them. DONT torque the jam-nuts as this will throw the clearence out. torque reference is in the manual for these just so you know the MAX specified torque for that fastener.

on intake 6thou should fit but 7 thou shouldnt. hence clearence is between 6-7thou.

on exhaust 7thou should fit but 8 shouldnt. hence 7-8 thou. :nice:

Take the cam cover off again and re-check. :nice:
 
Cheers EK9turbo, I'll check em again this weekend with that in mind. Thanks for the help!!
 
do you need special feelers to do these ie the ones that have an offset or angle in them or will the regular straight ones do it?
 
you need feeler gauges with an angle just make sure they have teh measurement range that you need to set the valve clearances
 
I disagree that you need angled feelers, Ive always used regular straight feelers with no problem.
 
OK, finally got her purring again after a week of tick-tick-tick'ing!!!

Noticed that the ticking wasn't evident when starting the engine from cold after adjusting to .006 IN & .007 EX- it was only once the engine had warmed that the ticking was really evident (high piched sound). So I thought its the expansion due to heat that's causing the ticking, so took blinx's advice and set the clearances to .007 IN & .008 EX - thus allowing room for expansion when hot - and she sounds like a dream!!

Thanks for all the advice guys!!
 
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