removing lower torque mounts


I

iceman

Active Member
Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
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done it couple times before years back and rememember simple case of takin 3 bolts of with middle nut bein little awkward

now, when i crack open middle nut i then simply need to take nut of BUT the flimsy mount rotates and will snap if i turn anymore

what do you guys do/tips ?

i cant for the life of me remember how i used to get it of, their new oem torque mounts i fitted about year ago so dont wanna snap em and have to buy more
 
What are you trying to do exactly that necessitates removal of the torque mount in that particular method? Why not remove the mount from the engine block and transmission side instead?

Sure there are more bolts, but unless you have access to an air gun/impact wrench, you're not going to generate enough initial burst to loosen it without tearing the mount. Which I found out last year by being lazy and not firing up my compressor... :(
 
im refitting inserts, there are just 3 bolts, ive done it on my drive couple times before but cant remember what i did to get centre nut of without damaging rubber
 
if u have a breaker bar use a long extension an a socket an give the breaker bar a quick push in a downward direction anti clock wise to open an it should crack it wit out tearing the rubber mount
 
way2fastforu said:
if u have a breaker bar use a long extension an a socket an give the breaker bar a quick push in a downward direction anti clock wise to open an it should crack it wit out tearing the rubber mount
Click to expand...

i dont have problem cracking nut free, just once loose and try to turn nut to remove, rubber rotates and will snap
 
I think the best way to do this is to remove the entire mount...set it on the ground and use a vise grip to hold the back portion of the mount to prevent it from rotating. I'm not sure if that's possible.

Or..you remove the entire mount and then bring it to a garage with a air and have them blast it off.
 
RagingAngel said:
I think the best way to do this is to remove the entire mount...set it on the ground and use a vise grip to hold the back portion of the mount to prevent it from rotating. I'm not sure if that's possible.

Or..you remove the entire mount and then bring it to a garage with a air and have them blast it off.
Click to expand...


thanks, looks like this is best way now, i suppose other option is to replace 2 upper main mounts with a solid mount and get rid of torque mounts/brackets altogether, nice weight saving but need to find mounts with minimal additional vibration

i even find vibration from inserts too much to live with on daily drive but doing for summer only when i can enjoy driving most and for majority of trackdays ill be doing
 
If vibration is a concern, you should not go with inserts or replacing the two upper mounts with solid ones either.

They will just make things worse. Spoon/Mugen along with our (MFactory) kits use a harder rubber compound but maintain the factory voids to minimize engine torquing but maintaining acceptable levels of vibration for the street oriented enthusiast.

For the track, inserts are nice on a budget, but new motor mounts are also crucial to keeping the motor at the correct height for proper axle alignment; something the inserts cannot account for. This was detailed by Spoon's president a while back.
 
ive looked into solid type mounts in past and no one makes set that id be happy with tbh, mugen is my 1st choice and spoon second but you cant buy individual mounts from either, i have brand new oem torque mounts and oem rear lower mount so looking to replace just the upper 2 with something stuffer so that way i can decrease engine movement but keep additional vibrations to a minimum

if not then i think i will just buy full mugen/spoon set

but never new mfactory did same type as them so looking into that right now, thanks
 
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