Rebuilt engine, slight loss of oil pressure plus other symptoms.


In order of cylinder 4 down to 1




One of all four in one go
 
Yeah I'm sorry, all I've got atm.
 
jesse888 said:
I won't lie, it did cross my mind. I see using a c4 as giving up now. I'm like a dog with a bone when it comes to this engine.
Realistically it won't take me at all long to build this engine again now I've not got to wait on parts.
I've not got to check the clearance for bearings etc and it will all go together nicely as I've done it before.
Last time I was learning the whole way so took more time.

Way I see it is if I build it properly it'll last.
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If you could get a c4 bottom end or even a b20 bottom end, you could put your head on either and make more power with less boost? B20 motors go pretty dam cheap too.

I was gutted for you mate reading your build thread and things going well then to see what has been happening with you motor. You've invested serious time and money into it and I would be very careful to inspect everything in your engine and turbo thoroughly and make very careful decisions about what parts you decide to reuse. As ultimately what may not look bad or goes undetected could cause you another failure.

Definitely post some pictures up of your spark plugs. White on your spark plug and deposits on your head may mean you have been running lean. Might be worth investing in a wideband 02 sensor and gauge to make sure you don't have some sort of fuelling issue, especially after the meltdown of your last engine.

When you take the plugs out make sure you number them to the cylinder they came out of aswell.

Post up some closeups of your valves and head in good light.

Vtec6000 said:
Can you post up pictures of spark plugs? Sounds like deposits from oil been burnt off during combustion. Try some carb cleaner and wire wool to clean the combustion chamber.
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Carb cleaner or kerosene and some scotchbright should do the trick. Or if you can get some industrial stuff PF-SRM is made for cleaning carbon deposits. I would definitely wash out your whole block when you get it back with kerosene and clean rags.

I have an old ultrasonic bath knocking about the garage, I fill it half full of kerosene and bath the parts in it for hours. Gets everything properly clean.

jesse888 said:
I say white, it's more grey/white and it's not very bright, Google search throws up much worse than mine.
They have deposits on the valve faces I've tried to clean it off without much luck. The white/grey has gone but the deposits are still there.
What should I clean the combustion chamber part of the head with? Also I've got a gasket stain from the headgasket so I'd like to try and clean that off aswell.
Any ideas?
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PICS?
 
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I've got a wideband, AFRs are 11.6 on WOT. So it's actually richer than it could be.
Cleaned Pistons and rods with a toothbrush and boiling water yesterday.
Waiting on getting block back.
 
tama666 said:
Positive progress indeed.
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Thanks buddy, easy to get down about things not going your way so little pick me ups are cool!
Got block back today. Light hone and it's been in an acid bath, left for 3 days (acid works over 3days) then back in the acid bath again.
Machinist advice was give it another clean because the acid carries on working so some **** might still be in there.
Washed the whole block down with fairy liquid on a cloth(x2) and jet washed it all off(x2) then gave the cylinders a coat of wd40(x2) to stop from rusting.
The block is MUCH cleaner this time than last, it's shiney in some places. Only thing left to clean is the crankshaft, the rest has been cleaned thoroughly. Will give everything a coat of brake cleaner before assembly.

Only hold up now is waiting on a hefty order from tegiwa then it's build time!!
 
Use boiling water from the kettle with fairy let it sit for 20 min or do..Then jet wash. Repeat couple of times. Try and lift the block and shake it about with water still in it. Hot water works better at these things.
 
It's getting the boiling water to "sit" in the cylinders that's the problem.
I'm 100% sure its clean, last time I would wipe the cylinders with a cloth after using brake cleaner and the cloth would have a grey stain on it, no such thing this time.
The block is the only thing I haven't put boiling water on, but it was hot tanked at the machine shop....
 
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jesse888 said:
It's getting the boiling water to "sit" in the cylinders that's the problem.
I'm 100% sure its clean, last time I would wipe the cylinders with a cloth after using brake cleaner and the cloth would have a grey stain on it, no such thing this time.
The block is the only thing I haven't put boiling water on, but it was hot tanked at the machine shop....
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Will be running before you know it.
 
Thought I'd update this for anyone who has issues in the future.
The 3rd time of building and I got it right lol
Basically I just wasn't being clean enough, where I've been rebuilding from some form of failure everytime it's put metal into the oil coolers and the galleries in the head. This inturn gets recycled around the system and finds the pump again if you don't thoroughly clean it.
I've got 1800miles on the new engine including a 15min session at rockingham and a Nurburgring trip so it's seen abuse. No loss of pressure or anything to report as unusual so I'm confident in saying that I've found and fixed the issue.
 
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