rebuild of a B16A2 with 240000km (149136M)


PiStErO

Abarthino
Joined
Jan 25, 2009
Messages
58
hi guys

i have to rebuild my eg6 engine, it's a B16A2 motor with 240000km (149136 M), now it's all original with only central and final exhaust, a direct air filter and a chipped ecu.

it hasn't any kind of problem but i decide to rebuild it, i have bought:

EK9 Complete Piston
Full Gasket Set
Distribution Kit (with water pump)

i think that with other modification that i will done to arrive at 180cv

now my questioning:

i must change:

Valves?
Trasmission Seal?
Valve Guides?

all them can do 240000km??

can i change trasmission seals without open the gearbox?


next

what kind of clutch i must buy, i think about an OEM kit that untill 200cv it must work or not?

what are the differences between EG6 and EK9-DC2 clutch?
they don't use the same friction plate?


thanks all and sorry for my ridiculous english:angry2:
 
Hi, your English is great i didn't even notice a problem :nice:

For the engine when rebuilding i suggest:

block
-new pistons and rings 81.25mm
-new rod/main bearings and thrust washers
-bore and hone

head
-3 angle valve job
-new valve guide seals

misc
-timing belt
-water pump
-oil bump

Also not a bad idea to use some ARP head studs :nice: Also check over and replace anything else if showing excessive signs of wear.
 
Im also doing a rebuild on a b18c4 bottom end, can i get away with using oem 81mm itr pistons with just a hone? Or would i have to go 81.25?

Thanks
 
Im also doing a rebuild on a b18c4 bottom end, can i get away with using oem 81mm itr pistons with just a hone? Or would i have to go 81.25?

Thanks

Best to ask the machine shop, i see no reason to even chance it though, if its already apart...
 
Hi, your English is great i didn't even notice a problem :nice:

For the engine when rebuilding i suggest:

block
-new pistons and rings 81.25mm
-new rod/main bearings and thrust washers
-bore and hone

head
-3 angle valve job
-new valve guide seals

misc
-timing belt
-water pump
-oil bump

Also not a bad idea to use some ARP head studs :nice: Also check over and replace anything else if showing excessive signs of wear.

you think that i can use the original valves?

and the oil pump it's really necessary?

i will check if it's works well, than if it's necessary i replace it...

and what do you mean with 3 angle valve job?
 
I assume you mean the rear main seal when you are referring to the transmission seal. In that case, you must remove the transmission as well as the clutch/flywheel.

If you have the motor apart and have access to all the necessary specifications, this will help you determine if you require replacing those parts.

But, generally speaking with that much mileage already, I would replace the oil pump and the valves as well.

A 3 angle valve job is how the machine shop would cut the valve seat (in 3 different angles) to mate with base or the lip of the valve. It is done mainly for better flow and thus, better performance when tuned properly.
 
what are the differences between EG6 and EK9-DC2 clutch?
they don't use the same friction plate?

The friction disc from what I recall is similar if not exactly the same. The main difference is the pressure plate. The DC2-R/EK9 one has better clamping force.

If you do not do any or not a lot of drag racing, the EK9/DC2-R clutch will hold up to 220bhp with no problems.

I advise changing to a light flywheel as well. Look on eBay for Fidanza or if you can't find any, we can supply one too.

The Fidanza is aluminum while the one we have is chromoly. We have two versions. One is 12.5lbs and the other is 8.8lbs (5.7kg and 4kg) The Fidanza also weighs about 4kg.

The OEM flywheel is about 18lbs or 8.2kg.
 
thank you so much...

for the clutch i think to buy a OEM kit for EK9 or DC2-R, the chepest on the web...

for the valves i think that we take the original with a rebuild surface area of the mushroom and the head surface where is the valve..
 
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