How to replace rear engine mount

Discussion in 'Resource Area' started by Tmus, Jan 23, 2010.

  1. Tmus

    Tmus New Member

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    1. First thing is to remove the intake arm and airbox, or whatever intake you have.


    2. Remove two 19mm bolt from underneath the car, from the L Bracket, you will see it right next to the O2 sensor. Please becareful not to damage it, Unplug it for easier access.

    [​IMG]


    3. From top on intake side, remove the 17mm on the L bracket, now the Bracket is not connected to the engine/box.

    [​IMG]


    4. From top on battery side, remove the 17mm bolt (circled Red) which holds the bracket to the mount itself. Now the L bracket Will be free.

    [​IMG]


    5. While you are there, you might as well remove the 14mm on the mount, in the same picture above highlighted. I used a Long extension and went between the coolant pipes shown below

    [​IMG]


    6. From intake side, i removed the 10mm nut which holes the heater control, this will enable you to move the heater control out of the way.

    you can have a direct access using a extension from the top to undo the 14mm, going behind fuel line, and the heater pipes. (move the breather and throttle cable out of the way as well)

    [​IMG]


    7. Last 14mm should be quite simple, since the L bracket is loose you should have enough space, I used a short extension and ratchet, you can use a long one and do it from above.

    [​IMG]


    8. Now the mount is loose and ready to come out, I tumble the mount forward, and pull it out from the intake side. Just move the pipes, if you drag on them it is ok, they are quite flexible.

    [​IMG]


    9. now you have it out,(mine was fcuked), when putting it back in, thread couple of threads on all the bolts up first by hand. Since you will have more movement to line them up, (especially if you have stiffer mount), then tighten them all up.

    [​IMG]



    Notes to take down:

    Becareful when undoing the bolts there are quite a few sensor around most of the bolts,especially near the Throttle body area, lots of sensor and if you slip you can hit them.

    I gave the mount some WD40 when going back in.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2010
  2. ijwhiteman

    ijwhiteman Super Moderator Donator

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    Good thread chap! REP added
     
    sherono1 likes this.
  3. Bon87

    Bon87 DC2 ITR Owner

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    How long did it take?
     
  4. type-r-dunk

    type-r-dunk EK9 DB8 DC5 DC2 EK9 Vendor

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    Ages, even if doing it on your back as the bracket is in the way of getting the mount out.
    Good luck, Dunx
     
  5. Tmus

    Tmus New Member

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    I think allow 2 hours from start to finish. I just pull the mount out, the pipes moves quite a bit so you'll work your way out.

    It wasn't that bad if you follow the steps i did.
     
  6. LiamEk4

    LiamEk4 New Member

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    i had to change the same mount on sunday it took me bout 1 hour as i already had most of the car in piece, but it is the hardest mount to do :((
     
  7. EK91201486

    EK91201486 New Member

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    thats exactly what I will have to do on mine soon..:S
     
  8. tico_ek9

    tico_ek9 Moderating you

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    good how to
     
  9. m0nch1zzl3

    m0nch1zzl3 1998 EJ6 Owner Donator

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    Good write up! +1
     
  10. Matt-EK9

    Matt-EK9 ex EK9 owner Donator

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    Thanks for the write up +rep to you. Been looking for something like this as I've had some mounts sitting waiting to go in. I take it the other four mounts are more straight forward/self explanatory?
     
  11. Jokeshopbeard

    Jokeshopbeard VTEC Addict!

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    Nice work on the writeup Tmus, used this guide to fit my Innovative mounts on Sunday.

    One thing to note for any that are fitting Innovative/etc mounts, is that the frontmost bolt that goes through the rear mount is too short due to the additional mount thickness/fixed washer on the OEM bolt. Took me about 3 hours to work that out - luckily I found a bolt lying around that fitted perfectly!!
     
  12. JDM_addict

    JDM_addict New Member

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    do i need to hold the engine wit a jack?
     
  13. Steve M

    Steve M Member

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    No you wont, the other 2 mounts will support the engine fine:)
     
  14. switch9

    switch9 New Member

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    Maybe an extra tip for people who are changing all of their engine/transmission mounts:

    I removed almost al the other mounts first (I think I just left the upper left mount in) and then supported the engine with a jack.
    This way you can move and 'rotate' the engine a little bit, and create more space at the rear mount. I could easily remove the mount this way and put the new one in.
     
  15. rvm

    rvm admin Staff Member

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    Thanks for sharing :thanks:
     
  16. JDM_addict

    JDM_addict New Member

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    thanks for all the tips, my rear mount is badly tore.. need to get it fixed asap. By refering to this 'how to' I might save some labor $$ to buy better quality mount.
     
  17. mick218

    mick218 JDM Ek4 Hatch

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    very good diy thread this is, but i paid garage to put on my replacement mount anyway cos it pain in the ass to do it as i dont have the right tools:mad:
     
  18. abunai888

    abunai888 V-tec Addict!

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    just finished mine :clap: i fitted a hasport mount back there instead of oem
    it was really a pain to unfit the old one !! :angry2: :mad:
    thanks for the diy Tmus it really helped me out :nice:
     
  19. si8pny

    si8pny Active Member

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    real good guide i need to do mine soon altho i may wimp out and get Rmotion to fit it lol
     

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