High Compression b18c build


Rich777

Rich777

Active Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2007
Messages
3,660
Alright guys ime going to be building a high comp b18c soon (12:1). I have a apexi power fc (mapped to my b16b setup) and my stock b16b ecu. I know i need to get the apexi remapped to the b18c setup BUT whilst ime running it in should i go back to my stock ecu ? ? ? Will this be ok as ime going to be keeping the revs real low. Also is it worth getting my b16b head ported and polished ?

Thanks Guys
Rich:nice:
 
EK9turbo said:
Yo Rich!.. dont run it on the stock ecu unless you want it to go bang.
Click to expand...

I agree.

Also yes you can port your b16b head with a shop that knows what they are doing, Before using your car at high revs or racing, get a ecu remap (apexi power fc tuner) and proper fuel, get a air / fuel gauge to see if you're going lean or rich, this is a must! :nice:
 
What shall i do whilst ime running it in ? ?
Thanks for the replys guys

Rich
 
Yes port the head, NO do not use the stock ecu. You do not need to "run in" the motor, I personally run them in on the dyno!! I start the car, let it idle for about 2-3 minutes making sure a/f is right around 14.4-14.6 then i drive it around light throttle for about 5-10 minutes making sure a/f stays constant then its time for dyno tuning. Unless you have cromoly rings your rings will seat in 5 minutes.
 
Ive had the engine bored a bit though, wont there be bits of metal circulating round the engine ? I thought i had to do at least 1000 miles before i got it on the dyno.

thanks blinx
Rich
 
Rich777 said:
Ive had the engine bored a bit though, wont there be bits of metal circulating round the engine ? I thought i had to do at least 1000 miles before i got it on the dyno.

thanks blinx
Rich
Click to expand...

Do as you like, i already stated my opinion...
 
Rich777 said:
Ive had the engine bored a bit though, wont there be bits of metal circulating round the engine ? I thought i had to do at least 1000 miles before i got it on the dyno.

thanks blinx
Rich
Click to expand...

Why would there be bits of metal floating around?

You wash the bare block down with soapy water after the machine work then wash it down on HOT with a heated jetwasher/steam cleaner. This''ll run remove any swarfage. If youve assembled the engine with swarfage in the you had better strip it down before you run it and do the job properly.

As for the boring/honing. If your spent the extra (lots of extra) to have it bored/honed on a laser guided rottler (for example) with diamond bore bit and diamond hone then as blinx said itll lliterally take 5 or so minuted for the rings to seat. If it was done on the common stone machines found in england then generally it could take 50-100+miles. You monitor the ring sealing by doing repeatable compression tests in a controlled manner. Do that before startup and also every 100 or so miles and youll SEE how the motors rings are settling in.

And like Blinx and myself told you; have it tuned before driving it miles, Tune it straight away! If youd like me to tune it for you then get in touch. :nice:
 
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yeah, at least a street tune in the lower rpms if you plan on driving it for a while.
 
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