Help, oil spilling out from the head/block


blinx9900

blinx9900

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My friend bought this car a year ago that had oil leaking from between the head and block right near the tranny, its a b20 block with a b16 head. To make a long story short we have tried everything we could to fix the issue and 6 head gaskets later there is still oil leaking.

What can be causing this? Here is a list of what we have tried so far:

-used both GE and Cometic headgaskets
-decked the block
-bought a new (used) block and decked that
-bought a new (used) head and milled that
-run with dowel pins and now running without dowel pins

The bastard does not leak it freaking S***** oil still, this engine has less than 100 miles on it, i feel so bad for my friend he is about to lose his mind

Here is the setup:
-B20 block 84.5mm and decked
-B16 head ported/polished and resurfaced
-ARP head studs torqued to proper sequence and force

This is a turbo motor with a GT35R, forged pistons and rods. You guys know i am not inexperienced, this is not the first motor i have had my hands on but we are all simply at a loss to the cause :angry:
 
Yes simple fix, you just need a Breather kit. The engine had too much crank pressure build up in it, specially if you are running turbo.
 
Dixcelbrake said:
Yes simple fix, you just need a Breather kit. The engine had too much crank pressure build up in it, specially if you are running turbo.
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I considered this as i have seen it in the past but this engine has not even gone over 4000 rpm and its already doing it :nono: do you think it could have that much crank case pressure at such low rpm? I know b20/vtecs have a lot of crank case pressure but these just seems like too much!!
 
Dixcelbrake said:
Yes simple fix, you just need a Breather kit. The engine had too much crank pressure build up in it, specially if you are running turbo.
Click to expand...

Not relevant to crank pressure at all when its from between the head/block
 
pimpinblackcivic said:
have you checked the vtec solenoid gasket?
Click to expand...

This is what Id do first since it will look like it could be coming form where you say.


Otherwise, Did you have the DOWELS machined? alot of people seem to overlook this and end up with it seeping through. Plus you do need them to line the head up properly.

Also have you used some brake clean to spray/wipe it clear then 100% certainly confirm where abouts its coming from?


EDIT: ust to be clear the dowls will hold the head UP!
 
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EK9turbo said:
This is what Id do first since it will look like it could be coming form where you say.


Otherwise, Did you have the DOWELS machined? alot of people seem to overlook this and end up with it seeping through. Plus you do need them to line the head up properly.

Also have you used some brake clean to spray/wipe it clear then 100% certainly confirm where abouts its coming from?


EDIT: ust to be clear the dowls will hold the head UP!
Click to expand...

Thats what i keep telling the ****ing machinest! I am not a b20/vtec LS/vtec expert but i understanding was also if the head/block get milled or resurfaced you have to do the same to the dowels but the machinest looked at me like i was crazy when i said that, seems i should be finding a new machine shop, i will check the vtec selonoid also.
 
blinx9900 said:
I considered this as i have seen it in the past but this engine has not even gone over 4000 rpm and its already doing it :nono: do you think it could have that much crank case pressure at such low rpm? I know b20/vtecs have a lot of crank case pressure but these just seems like too much!!
Click to expand...

You do get Crank pressure even on idling, we race Honda and build countless of engine every year and we have this experience before. What piston are you running? Is it standard one? also what piston to wall clearance is he running?
 
Dixcelbrake said:
You do get Crank pressure even on idling, we race Honda and build countless of engine every year and we have this experience before. What piston are you running? Is it standard one? also what piston to wall clearance is he running?
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im not sure on the claerance, but they are forged pistons the first block had arias the second had probe.
 
blinx9900 said:
Thats what i keep telling the ****ing machinest! I am not a b20/vtec LS/vtec expert but i understanding was also if the head/block get milled or resurfaced you have to do the same to the dowels but the machinest looked at me like i was crazy when i said that, seems i should be finding a new machine shop, i will check the vtec selonoid also.
Click to expand...

I'm a machinest also.

What dowels is he using? Most solid dowel pins are very very accurate and within microns tolerance. More accurate than machined as they tend to be ground concentric and then treated. I certainly wouldn't machine one especially as they are hardened also.

If your requirements need a specific size that wasn't a solid standard size ground dowel then i would machine a pin to act as a dowel/locator.
 
ijwhiteman said:
I'm a machinest also.

What dowels is he using? Most solid dowel pins are very very accurate and within microns tolerance. More accurate than machined as they tend to be ground concentric and then treated. I certainly wouldn't machine one especially as they are hardened also.

If your requirements need a specific size that wasn't a solid standard size ground dowel then i would machine a pin to act as a dowel/locator.
Click to expand...

The height of the dowel, not the diameter
 
Shouldn't make a difference... Dowels are just for location, so are solely dependant on the diameter. THATS THE ACCURATE BIT?

If you have 7.5mm depth in one hole and 7.5mm depth in the other you would only need a 12mm long Dowel. Not 15mm or slighlty under.

Maybe i'm missing the point in what the dowel is doin in the block?

It can't be all that critical because i've seen B20 builds with people drilling the hole for the dowel by hand.... :angry:

Got any pics of what its there for?
 
ijwhiteman said:
It can't be all that critical because i've seen B20 builds with people drilling the hole for the dowel by hand.... :angry:

Got any pics of what its there for?
Click to expand...

:nerv: no pics, i am going to try somethings and then post some updates.
 
this would only be an issue if the holes for the dowel pin are a set depth, which from memory they are not - unless the b20 blocks different from b16/b18?
 
This is the oil supply hole from the B16 block which is not present on the B20 block and if not plugged will cause oil to seep out all over the back of your engine.

has this been done ?
 

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