Ek4 trouble


Alright folks back again with a different problem now car failed mot yesterday on the emissions test what would be causing it to over fuel and have high emissions. There's also an idling issue with it aswell as if there's something wrong with the iacv
 
Wow this problem is going on nearly a year now lol !
Over fueling? Maybe your fpr? Tps wiring is shorting somewhere? Bad ecu ? Post a picture of the emissions read out , so someone might be able to help better.
 
Just a thought- had a bud of mine buy a car that ran too rich- we found that the after market fuel rail wasn't machined to allow for the fuel to be returned to the tank. With this one way in and no way out fuel rail, it basically "dead headed" the fuel line with made it runn ok at WOT, but crappy every where else. Do you know if your fuel pressures are with in factory specs? (I think its 36psi at idle, 46 psi at WOT?)
 
I'll get pics up tomorrow and I have no idea what the fuel pressures are I'm trying to get it booked in with a Jap tuner to see if he can sort it
 
Just a thought- had a bud of mine buy a car that ran too rich- we found that the after market fuel rail wasn't machined to allow for the fuel to be returned to the tank. With this one way in and no way out fuel rail, it basically "dead headed" the fuel line with made it runn ok at WOT, but crappy every where else. Do you know if your fuel pressures are with in factory specs? (I think its 36psi at idle, 46 psi at WOT?)
Good point also , pull your return fuel line off the fpr and blow though it to make sure it's not blocked.
 
Here's the mot test results
 

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Reset my tps and the very best I can get is wot4.5 ct0.46 because if I set it to ct0.48 the engine starts idle hunting and turning the brass idle screw doesn't do anything
 
Your chasing your tail- you already set the TPS in a previous post yes? The MAP sensor is the "lord and commander" of fuel regulation- the TPS is only a secondary input.
- Fuel pressure?
- Confirm that your MAP sensor voltage and the BARO sensor voltage are the same with a scan tool with 'key on, engine off ' - This is an easy way to confirm proper sensor voltage.
 
The Baro sensor is located in your ECU- it measures the air pressure that its in in order to correct its fuel tables accordingly. A Barometer check tells the ECU what elevation its in, because there is more atmospheric pressure at sea level than in the high alps- thus its going to need to add more fuel at the level to keep up with the denser air. The MAP sensor is also a Baro sensor in ways as it reads manifold pressure/vacuum--- engine not running=atmospheric pressures at Map sensor should be the same as the Baro sensor voltage from ecu.
 
The fuel flows from the fuel filter to the side of the fuel rail ( "Green" in the photos) past the injectors and out the other side where it goes through the pressure regulator ( "Red" in the photos ), then back to the tank ( "Dotted Red" in the photos ). Some times more harm than good can come from trying to remove parts yourself that you are unsure of. If nothing else, when you drop your car off to that 'Jap tuner' tell him to also check the fuel pressures. If you do pull it off yourself, be careful as there is high fuel pressures in that fuel rail. And getting sprayed in the eyes is no fun. ( Ask me how I know.
 

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