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The close ratio gear kit in that car is largely responsible for that cars pace - deep into 5th gear on the back straight and a nice close spread. Unfortunately the gain in breathing with the quads has been lost with the poor header.

**** no! Just remove them all together! If you've got solid mounts supporting the rest of the engine you dont need those lower mounts. That is alot of weight you can remove from in front of the front wheels which is a good thing for sure!

Do you mean 'without'? :)

Welcome!

Nice! Putting the bush in the freezer and then heating the arm can help with the socket and hammer trick! I do have my doubts on poly bushes LONG term. I just feel that eventually the bush is going to go dry and then flog out. In fact I've seen this happen with Skunk2 Pro camber arm bushes...

I imagine the exhaust wears a tiny bit quicker due to the extra heat on the side. Overall I'd say if the noise isn't too loud to not worry about it. If you find the fresh valve seals start to wear out and you can smoke on decel (followed by throttle application) then you could have worn guides...

I've run a number of plate diffs over the years so happy to offer my opinion here. I've had a very bad run with my Spoon diff which is very similar and made by Kaaz but not identical. The first issue I had with the Spoon is that it completely blew the spider gears to pieces - like smashed it...

So yum!

@Topher-EK9 is right about the cross over. When you do more mods and get it tuned just get an expert tuner to set it where it is best suited for maximum power. This will typically be a smoother cross over but more power is a good thing right? How big and free flowing is the exhaust? Aim for...

Its not hard to do and a shop that specialises in it could do it for a fair price.

The B16A intake springs are already double :) . In saying that you should upgrade to Type R springs. I'm pretty sure they're cheap new and they do come up second hand now and then. I wouldn't 'upgrade' to stiffer aftermarket valve springs (unless you do plan on installing bigger cams in the...

Hmmm interesting problem. For the most part Honda guides are pretty good but that doesn't mean they cant wear. Maybe talk to the machine shop that rebuilt your head? They would have no doubt given the guides a quick check when removing the valves and working on the head.

Nice! It would be good to replace the cam seals as well while all of this is taken apart. The cam seals generally wear faster and start leaking sooner then the oil pump seal. Good luck! Its a big exercise.

Dont know if you've got it sorted but there are adjustable ones out there. Some of the cheaper brands like Blow tend to wear out really quickly but the ASR ones (not cheap) are very good quality. You'll gain a bit of exhaust clearance but make sure you dont run them two short that they rub on...

The conversion isn't hard to do if you did want to! For the front - just grab SIR style 4x100 hubs and upright (the drive shaft will slip in fine) and then redrill the rotor to 4x100 and machine the caliper mounting bracket. For the rear - just grab SIR style 4x100 hubs and trailing arm, bolt...

You simply dont need 'subframe reinforcement' on a Type R. You can even bolt on a massive 32mm ASR torsion bar sway bar without any risk of damaging the subframe! If its purely for looks, you'll be simply left with funky aftermarket lower tie bars :)

I've run both ES, HR rubber and HR spherical. I was expecting HR rubber to be better but ES is equally as good - and this was on a high km road car for 3 years! People do complain that ES wears out and can get squeeky over time but I haven't found that to be the case at all. The one...

Pretty sure Rockauto have them as well! Good luck.

Yeah I'd say if you're going to do it, just grab a full kit and do all the seals, bleed nipple, piston and sliding pins. They're cheap online from places like RockAuto and it'll give you good peace of mind that you know that wont need touching for a while. Dont forget to clean and hone (or do...

Bolt in job. Gear box is the same and the best bet would be to use the current loom from your current car (maybe swap your current OBD Dizzy, Alternator and sensors if they're a different generation). The rest should be a bolt in job. As for the intake manifold, you dont have to change it if...