Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


So my oem wheels have taken abuse from these rc6 pads.
I admit not washing them for afew 100miles hasn't helped.
These pictures are 40miles after a wash, so the fine dust you see is just standard build up but the heavy stuff is actually stuck on the wheel that even a wheel acid won't pick up.
The black lines on the spikes are from the wheel alignment machine



I had to use a screwdriver(yes screwdriver) to scrape the build up off the wheels. Obviously this has removed some of the clear coat but the wheels need doing again anyway. So after atleast an hour this is what the drivers wheel looks like now.

Far from perfect and you can't really see the defects in the wheel from this picture but it's 1000x better than before.
Going to finish off the passenger front wheel today hopefully.
Oh and booked a trackday at brands!!

3rd of June is the old c4 blocks first test, let's hope she can pull through lol
Hopefully on the dyno on the 1st to check the maps still decent enough to run the car. Can't see it being a problem tbh
 
What a job on the wheel mate looks spanking now compared to what it was lol, bet your excited to get back out on track and see how the car performs now with the c4 block, you been using the car regular ?
 
The picture is hiding quite a lot tbh.
They are far from perfect. Will do for getting it to the track etc
I've not done more than 40miles in it since the new block went in. Should get some miles on it really but I've been preoccupied with cleaning/sorting out the bits I've let slip over the months.
Hopefully get out in it today at some point.

It's been through the revs and it's silky smooth all the way to 8800rpm. Not bad went you think the limit for these is 8400 factory.
Not gone higher than spring pressure at 0.45bar yet, was waiting to get the tune checked out but tbh I'm being over cautious I think.
 
Right abit of a mare today.
Changed the oil filter for a shortie filter to help boost the oil pressure(it works) but found glittery oil in the filter.
Ran the new filter for 20miles and took it back off, same again just less of it.
Decide to drop the oil and it's not as bad as in the filter but it's still alittle glittery.
Sump plug has the same metal particals it's had all along(pump material I'm guessing)
This new bottom end going aswell tells me it's not the bottom ends that's causing the problem, so what is?
My next guess is the cylinder head, when the piston shat itself on the first engine it's obviously put a lot of metal into the oil.
This must have found its way to the head and started wearing away at something there(assuming cam journals or caps)
Now this wear has started it must be just wearing all the time(despite cleaning it) putting more metal into the oil and thus into the pump. Which is the first thing to show signs of wear.
I could be miles off but the only things that haven't been changed since the b16b block went are
clutch/flywheel
Turbo
Cylinder head
All other parts have been changed over the period I've been having these issues.
I checked the turbo afew weeks ago and it looked fine with no signs of wear on the shaft. Won't eliminate it but I'm doubtful it's that as it boosts really nicely still.
Clutch flywheel - highly doubt this is the cause but I've heard of it with engines that suffer crank walk before. The action of the clutch pushes/pulls the crank in and out, mashing the pump in the process.
Cylinder head - now I found some suspect wear when I cleaned it, but I was so hell bent on it being the bottom end that I overlooked it(that and being poor meant I didn't want it to be ******) the wear is on the camshaft journals(only perhaps 2 of them) but seems irregular anyway.
When you count how many miles the head has done since the first failure it's literally 1600miles at a guess.
I think it's Defo worth looking into the head as the cause.
Would make sense that I can't find any issues with my forged block because IF I'm right then there is no problems to find on the bottom end.....
Either way this engines going to brands and I'll run it till it dies.
 
On a plus side the c4 block has good compression. Did a warm test with throttle open before I found the glittery oil.
Results where
220
210
213
214
 
There is a few places in the head that some oil can get trapped. Has the head ever been cleaned since the 1st failure? Keep a good eye on the cam journal wear. It could be that.
 
Yeah I cleaned it out the last time I built the forged block.
Can't see what else it could be.
Thinking of trying a different head and running the forged block again.
 
Yeah rc6 pads.
After today's drives they are grey again lol pointless with these pads it seems. Sacrificial rims it is.

I recon I'll get an hours running out of it before I lose too much oil pressure to continue.
I'm at a point where I NEED enjoyment out of this car or its at risk of being broken.
I'm hoping I get some decent run time at brands then I'll be full of spunk to rebuild it again with a new head and the forged block....
The Friday after brands I'm on holiday for a week. So I'll come back with 2weeks wages ready to spend getting another engine in the car lol
Madness lol
 
Ek9.org sweepstake on how long it lasts?
I'll take 10% for sacrificing my new engine lol
 
Not having much luck with this Jesse but it does sound like it could be head related, at least the forged bottom ends good.
 
I've got no idea if I'm honest. I genuinely thought the new block would fix it. Didn't even occur to me that the head would have been damaged in the original failure at the ring and tbh I've still got no real evidence other than abit of journal wear I noticed.
Plan of action is

Test mule the c4 block.

See how c4 bottom end looks after trackday if it's good enough to reuse then go for it. I've got some bearings from the last build that are decent enough to use in an experiment like this should the bearings be shot(assuming cranks ok)
Used but good condition oil pump
Replace clutch and flywheel. New clutch and probably a used oem flywheel
Switch back to oem pulley
Run without oil cooler
Replace cylinder head

Run the car like this for a week or so doing as many miles as possible with some boosts etc to try and get the wear going again.
If all is well after that throw the pulley on and run again.
Then I'll probably buy a new oil cooler kit just to be sure if the engines got that far.
I'll know within 100miles if its wearing again Just like this time.

I want to find out what the issue actually is as much as get the car running again tbh. If I don't find out it's going to be one of those questions I'll never be able to answer.
That sort of sh*t f*cks me off lol
 
my oil is very very slightly glittery and if i run my finger over sump plug thats slightly glittery too on my fingers, i didnt think anything of it though. doesnt seem to be overly an issue. did you have any other symptoms?
 
The the wear on the oil pumps...
 
Nah none of that mate. Literally slapped it on with a new headgasket.
Hard to believe a valve leak or warped head would cause my issues.

Compression test results above would suggest the head holds pressure very well.
 
I've been looking at both the oil pump gears again.
The wear seems worst on the engine side of the pump like its wearing against the backplate on the pump housing.
To me this would suggest the cranks moving or trying to pull the pump gears backwards some how but I can't see how that could be happening on an oem bottom end that was running fine before it got put into my car.
On my forged blocks I'd blame crankshaft end play as would most but on a stock bottom end?
Unless it's just bits of metal getting stuck in the housing of the pump and gouging at the gears, progressively getting worse until it loses pressure altogether..
 
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The back plate side on these pumps always wears more it seems, think it's just the way **** gets built up in a corner then pushed through
 
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