EK9 K-Swap


DBMatt

DBMatt

K20 EK9 - VTEC Addict
Joined
Feb 7, 2013
Messages
672
Sourcing all my K-swap parts. Have a few questions.

I've found the K-Tuned "Turn Key" package but with ECU, shifter box & cables, radiator, fan etc it comes to over £4K which is mega money really.

What I want to know is, what exactly do I 100% definitely NEED to buy from companies like K-Tuned & Hybrid Racing? And also what can I use from an EP3 to run he K20 and save a bit of cash?

If I have to I'll just fork out for the whole lot new, but thought I'd ask.
 
That turn key kit is over the top, better ways to get round a lot of things, but it all depends if you want the more labour intensive option or the more bling bolt together option with new off the shelf parts and if your doing it yourself or paying someone to do it.

@Ernie would be a good person to ask as he's done a few k swaps now
 
Things that I've found to say money are;

-ep3 radiator, does the job, probably better than most to be honest, however you will need slimline fans.. Only £30 or so IIRC
-Custom make your own induction, or even use the OEM pipe and an after market filter, not ideal as it places the filter in the bay causing heat soak but most EP3s run similar...
-You can make a custom wiring harness/ splice the harnesses together BUT is it really worth it and do you have the knowledge? I think you can buy a harness for £200 from an American company but not entirely sure which one... or if that is the right price..
-You can use the OEM ep3 exhaust manifold however you'd need to run a custom down pipe to whatever exhaust you are running.. standard EK9 can work being 2,5" BUT 3" is what you ideally want for more power/ torque.
-kpro is nice.. but if you want to save money and don't know much about tuning yourself or has anyone who can.. then just get the k100. Or save even more money buy just running the immobiliser bypass.. but ideally you'd like it mapped for it's full potential.


THE MAIN THING ON SAVING MONEY HOWEVER IS!!... Do it right first time and don't bodge anything... I've had 3 kswapped cars now.. One I got a local garage to do, was a decent job, but I skimped on the right parts and it never felt right to me... 2nd I bought already kswapped, there were a load of problems which should have really been dealt with when the swap was done, I ended up swapping that for my current car which I then K24 swapped.. this time I have done pretty much everything first time and I love the car to bits!

If you have any questions feel free to ask me, I'm no professional but have had enough kswapped cars to know their pros and cons lol
 
thuongk20 said:
Things that I've found to say money are;

-ep3 radiator, does the job, probably better than most to be honest, however you will need slimline fans.. Only £30 or so IIRC
-Custom make your own induction, or even use the OEM pipe and an after market filter, not ideal as it places the filter in the bay causing heat soak but most EP3s run similar...
-You can make a custom wiring harness/ splice the harnesses together BUT is it really worth it and do you have the knowledge? I think you can buy a harness for £200 from an American company but not entirely sure which one... or if that is the right price..
-You can use the OEM ep3 exhaust manifold however you'd need to run a custom down pipe to whatever exhaust you are running.. standard EK9 can work being 2,5" BUT 3" is what you ideally want for more power/ torque.
-kpro is nice.. but if you want to save money and don't know much about tuning yourself or has anyone who can.. then just get the k100. Or save even more money buy just running the immobiliser bypass.. but ideally you'd like it mapped for it's full potential.


THE MAIN THING ON SAVING MONEY HOWEVER IS!!... Do it right first time and don't bodge anything... I've had 3 kswapped cars now.. One I got a local garage to do, was a decent job, but I skimped on the right parts and it never felt right to me... 2nd I bought already kswapped, there were a load of problems which should have really been dealt with when the swap was done, I ended up swapping that for my current car which I then K24 swapped.. this time I have done pretty much everything first time and I love the car to bits!

If you have any questions feel free to ask me, I'm no professional but have had enough kswapped cars to know their pros and cons lol
Click to expand...


Thanks for the detailed replies guys! Not looking to skimp on cost, just wondering if everything is actually necessary that the package lists. Cost is not much of an issue really, its more just avoiding really unnecessary spending like on things I don't even need... I will be taking this on track as well as to shows once swapped so I will need good gear.

I do like my new shiny parts ;) I suppose I'm a bit of a brand whore, like to buy known brands but you get what you pay for. The work is being done by TDi North as I simply don't have the time or know how to do it myself. Don't really mind forking out for stuff like alloy radiator/fan, also want a stainless K-swap manifold as they're just better. As for the harness, again don't have the know how so will just buy one I guess.

Just bought a K-swap AEM induction kit off Jesse! :D As for software/ECU, I will probably end up going KPro as it is the best & TDi are mapping it. Gives me more options in the future also with further work & mapping.

I plan on doing this just right of course! Very useful advice, I will bare it all in mind. Just bought a DC2 subframe with steering rack & control arms today too to get the engine sitting right. Going all out on this.
 
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No you can use a full width radiator.

With mine I bought the mounts, shifter/cables, header and conversion harness from K-tuned. All the rest of the parts are either oem or made by myself
 
Beetlejuice said:
No you can use a full width radiator.

With mine I bought the mounts, shifter/cables, header and conversion harness from K-tuned. All the rest of the parts are either oem or made by myself
Click to expand...

Good info! thanks. Did you not buy axles and all?
 
No didn't buy any aftermarket ones. You can get a perfect fit using oem - never liked any aftermarket shafts I've come across, quality always seems poor.
 
Beetlejuice said:
No didn't buy any aftermarket ones. You can get a perfect fit using oem - never liked any aftermarket shafts I've come across, quality always seems poor.
Click to expand...

Oh right! As in OEM EP3? I was looking at Drive Shaft Shop's 2.9 shafts?
 
Have a chat with Mike at R-Motion, he should be able to help out in that department
 
Continued -

What we think...?

Skunk2 Alpha Megapower K-Swap header or Hybrid Racing PLM swap header?
 
Dont bother with the immobiliser delete just save and go straight for K100 or Kpro will be worth it in the long run and you wont have any hesitation issues.
 
si8pny said:
Dont bother with the immobiliser delete just save and go straight for K100 or Kpro will be worth it in the long run and you wont have any hesitation issues.
Click to expand...

I am going KPro yes :D
 
DBMatt said:
This radiator or the full width - http://hondaperformanceparts.co.uk/hybrid-racing-griffin-k-swap-radiator-civic-96-00-half-size

Says no mods required, bolts in on standard brackets etc. But doesn't the radiator have to move to the passenger side for K-swap?
Click to expand...
I've got that rad the outside mounts line up but for me the inside 2 didn't for whatever reason as it's full width it's both sides :p
DBMatt said:
Continued -

What we think...?

Skunk2 Alpha Megapower K-Swap header or Hybrid Racing PLM swap header?
Click to expand...
PLM :)
 
I found powerflex black series to be a pretty close match to the firmness of new oem ek9 bushes
 
Beetlejuice said:
I found powerflex black series to be a pretty close match to the firmness of new oem ek9 bushes
Click to expand...

Sweet. I will look into those then. Might just do it when All on the car tbh. do front and rear at the same time
 
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