Power locks and wiring

Hi all,

I had an alarm/autostart/keyless entry installed in my 2000 vsm EK9 Rx this week and ran into an issue... no keyless entry. When I did the electric lock, window and mirror conversion in my '96 US spec hatch both doors had an electronic actuator and keyless was no issue. It appears however that in the ek9 the driver's door only has a mechanical trigger which sends an electronic signal to the passenger door so it follows. Does this sound correct? Is it possible to just add a factory electronic actuator with the existing wiring and lock module and have it work?
Any help would be greatly appreciated (I searched but to no avail). If anyone has a wiring schematic that would be a definite bonus as well.

P.S. I thought that all Rx came factory with keyless? Mine shows it in the build/options list (according to a member here). If so how would this work with only one electronic actuator (in the passenger door)?

TIA

By keyless do you mean remote locking, as I from a fob?

pdapaul said:

By keyless do you mean remote locking, as I from a fob?

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Yes, remote locking/unlocking from a fob.

Does your central locking currently work from the key? If so if you lock the passenger door do all the doors lock?

As it works now if you lock or unlock the driver's door with either the key from the outside or the lever next to the handle on the inside it will lock or unlock the passenger door as well. If you use the key from the outside or the lever next to the handle on the passenger door it only locks or unlocks the passenger door.

To answer your original first post: Yes, it will work if you add an aftermarket electronic actuator. Just install it inot the car and wire it in. It's so easy. There's only two wires that come out of the actuator. Connect those to the car's current keyless entry.

Michael Flare said:

To answer your original first post: Yes, it will work if you add an aftermarket electronic actuator. Just install it inot the car and wire it in. It's so easy. There's only two wires that come out of the actuator. Connect those to the car's current keyless entry.

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Yes, I am aware that I can add an aftermarket actuator fairly easily... I happen to manage a car stereo and electronics shop. I'd like to use all factory parts if possible though. The aftermarket units are not nearly as reliable. Also, there appears to be no power signal going to the driver's door from the power lock control module.

From re-reading your OP I would be surprised if the locking module you have could be converted to keyless as you have suggested. Even if it could the logistics and cost of doing it would be far more than the benefits. You would have to change wiring, probably change over some of the wiring on the alarm you've just had installed and then also buy a couple of OEM remotes and try and get the coded to the module you now have. I'm all for OEM, but what you are suggesting is quite a challenge. May be easier to find a car with OEM keyless that is being broken and remove the full system from that..take the door harnesses and modules etc.
As an aside I've been an in car installer and run my own business for over a decade and I've still got aftermarket door actuators running from when I first started! As long as the weather seals. are put back in place and you use a good quality motor you should be fine!

pdapaul said:

From re-reading your OP I would be surprised if the locking module you have could be converted to keyless as you have suggested. Even if it could the logistics and cost of doing it would be far more than the benefits. You would have to change wiring, probably change over some of the wiring on the alarm you've just had installed and then also buy a couple of OEM remotes and try and get the coded to the module you now have. I'm all for OEM, but what you are suggesting is quite a challenge. May be easier to find a car with OEM keyless that is being broken and remove the full system from that..take the door harnesses and modules etc.
As an aside I've been an in car installer and run my own business for over a decade and I've still got aftermarket door actuators running from when I first started! As long as the weather seals. are put back in place and you use a good quality motor you should be fine!

Click to expand...

I too am wondering if the current locking module can be used or if there will be a different one required. It does have a few extra ports that are unused though I haven't tested them yet. I may have to change it along with the driver's door actuator. I know that the US spec locking modules are different but I highly doubt the likelihood of being able to fit them. An EK9 or at least JDM specific wiring diagram would be most beneficial.
As far as the remotes, I wouldn't need any OEM ones. I will be using the aftermarket alarm/start system remotes. Also, no wiring would have to be changed on the system I just installed. The only wires not hooked up are for the door locks, though they are already ran and tucked in the kick panel for now.

Sorry bud, I've just re-re-read your OP, I thought you were trying to add a full OEM keyless in top of your alarm. I did think it strange !!

Do any of your friends have a EK with keyless? Maybe if you give Honda the 2 chassis need they can compare locking modules? I would think that the keyless modules would be pretty much the same across the EK range and not just '9 specific.

As above I think you'll find them different, yours will probably be a basic locking relay, whilst keyless will have the radio signal receiver , indicator outputs etc. Other differences will be in things like door pin configurations. With non keyless door locking obviously the door has to be physically shut to work. With keyless it's looking for a signal from either the lock or the door pins to confirm that the doors are locked.

Interesting project..

I'm okay with replacing wiring and components. I like to do things properly and use all factory pieces when possible. I have a full US spec wiring schematic and I converted my US 1996 EJ6 Hatch to power everything using all factory Honda wiring and parts. It was a lot of work but I felt that it was worth it in the end. I still have that car and I've compared them to see the differences. The US model Civics have a fairly different system and much different locking modules. The 1996-1998 systems relay through the radio and have the locking module on/in the driver's door, same as my 2000 EK9 though a completely different locking module. The 1999-2000 US models have the locking module in the driver's kick panel rather than the door so that system will be different as well. All 1996-2000 US systems also have a power control switch on the driver's door (this isn't necessary though, I didn't use it on mine). I may be able to use some components from the US systems if necessary (though very unlikely) but the driver's door actuator will not be able to be utilized in the EK9 though due to it being for the LH door instead of the RH door. At a minimum I would need a full power RHD 2/3 door EK actuator.

Do any 2/3 door RHD EKs have OEM remote locking/unlocking from a fob, EK9 or otherwise?