First turbo build...

robthedoc said:

No I mean just for now I'm not aiming for huge numbers, 300 sounds good, more would be great. So would you recommend higher comp pistons?

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For that HP level I would just use a stock b18c4, forget forging it.

Vtec6000 said:

For that HP level I would just use a stock b18c4, forget forging it.

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This is where I get confused tho, like at what point do I need to forge it? I mean to sound thick it just seems to happen lol.

robthedoc said:

This is where I get confused tho, like at what point do I need to forge it? I mean to sound thick it just seems to happen lol.

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If you wish to run over 380 bhp I would say

But would it not be a good idea to do it now while the engine is out and separated? Then in future it would be a turbo upgrade rather than another build? Its just because the b18 im getting has been stripped so would make sense to build it now?

Just noticed I said I mean to sound thick... should of read I don't mean to sound thick lol

If you want to run more say 380 at the flywheel then forging it now will be sensible yeah.

robthedoc said:

This is where I get confused tho, like at what point do I need to forge it? I mean to sound thick it just seems to happen lol.

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North of 350bhp and you would want to consider forging it, but what will break stock components, in particular the rods is torque so limiting peak torque output to a sensible level will certainly help prolong the life of the engine.
We have one customer running circa 310bhp on a stock b18c4 for 3 years, it's been turbo-d for 4 years but ran only 270bhp in it's first year. Car daily driven for the most part and seen a few track days over the years. So you see the stock blocks can be very reliable even when outputting about 80% more power over factory claimed power figures.
Maybe you mentioned already but what is your intended purpose for the car? i.e road car, track car?

robthedoc said:

But would it not be a good idea to do it now while the engine is out and separated? Then in future it would be a turbo upgrade rather than another build? Its just because the b18 im getting has been stripped so would make sense to build it now?

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Do it now if you have the finances in place and while its stripped. Just because the engine is low mileage does not mean its a good egg. People are assuming the block is fine. If you want to forge it go for it. My B16 was forged and only run 272whp
A saying ive seen, “It's built to take more, but that doesn't mean it needs to run more”

Vtec6000 said:

Maybe you mentioned already but what is your intended purpose for the car? i.e road car, track car?

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Sorry for slow response. The intention is to use it as a road car with the odd track day.

So I went to see the b18c4 bottom end yesterday and it really wasn't as described. Crank was tight as hell to turn but had apparently never been removed and the oil return badly welded into the sump didn't quite add up for it supposedly being a standard engine. Love a time waster.

So I'm back to plan A. But to be honest I would rather build the engine now so...

In people's opinions opinions am I better to find a b18c4 and run with that or go down the route of b18 crank, rods and Pistons in the b16b block that I have a know to be good?

If your b16b is in good condition then sell it to fund the build.
I used my b16b block because I ****** a piston and couldn't sell it.

Better with complete b18c4 that just bottom end and type r head?

Didn't think it would be this hard to find a good b18c4. Used to be 10 a penny

I'd go with the type R head.
Even if your rebuilding a cheap b18 is better than an expensive b16b...
Loads of people have good luck on standard c4s.
Tbh I think my b16b would have been fine if it was just a road car.

Murray said:

Do it now if you have the finances in place and while its stripped. Just because the engine is low mileage does not mean its a good egg. People are assuming the block is fine. If you want to forge it go for it. My B16 was forged and only run 272whp
A saying ive seen, “It's built to take more, but that doesn't mean it needs to run more”

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Completely right. My engine was a minter low mileage b16 with 40k on it. Bores had slight taper in them and the main bearings were becoming quite worn out.

Does it have to be a B18? Why over look the B16?

It does now I've bought one lol. I just thought it would make more sense to go for the b18 as it would make better power and torque at the same boost pressure than the 16?

The b18 I got came out an aerodeck that had been used as a mobile kennel going by the smell and amount of hair in it. 153k on it but when I split the engine I could not believe how clean it was inside.

Will be measuring bores etc tomorrow.

Are you going for a slight overbore?
Now the plans have changed to a bigger turbo, and bigger power by the sounds of it, just mind and think of everything else needed to cope with the extra power, torque and more importantly heat.

Murray said:

Are you going for a slight overbore?
Now the plans have changed to a bigger turbo, and bigger power by the sounds of it, just mind and think of everything else needed to cope with the extra power, torque and more importantly heat.

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.5 over bore mate. But machine shop won't touch it until the Pistons arrive.

Re heat I have a mishimoto radiator and new oem water pump. Also think the thermostat in the b16b is a low temp one but haven't checked it however I will replace with a new one anyway. Is there anything else I should be looking to get? Low temp fan switch?

No you shouldn't need a low temp thermostat or fan switch. If the cooling system is up to the job then you will be fine.
I had to run a low temp thermostat while doing the summer sprints as these are short twisty tracks with a lot of acceleration and it was double entered, so it got hot quick. Out on the road it never overheated with a normal thermo in as there is plenty of air and you are moving at speed.
An oil cooler may be worth a consideration. And a good clutch.

Hi everyone. Didn't want to make a new thread so I'm thread jacking this one. (Sorry @robthedoc !)

Im currently researching on turbos to do my first turbo conversion. The engine of choice is my b18c6. I really want to keep my standard engine as I know its a good runner and I don't want to chance buying a lemon c4.

I don't really have a power goal, but I'd be over the moon with 280-300 bhp which I know the b18c6 can handle safely.

I have a budget of 3k but can stretch it if needed.

I use the car daily but mostly weekends as I commute to work using public transport. I also plan to do some trackdays in the future so reliability is the main concern.

I want the turbo to spool fast and give me progressive power like a NA/Rotrex supercharger. I've been looking at the go autoworks street x kit with the GT2860RS turbo. Is this a bit overkill for my power goals? Or is it just right? I want a turbo that can produce at least 350hp so it leaves me room for more power. If I ever deecide that I want more power I can just forge the engine or swap it out for a c4

I'll be upgrading the rad to cope with extra heat and installing an oil cooler also. Clutch choice will be cc stage 4.

RC 440-550cc injectors and a walbro 225 is also on the list

In regards to transmission, I have a s80 I've just had rebuilt so I want to keep it. Can I simply just swap the final drive of a s9b to get longer gear ratios?

Thanks guys

Dont have a budget mate. It will go out the window very quickly. The turbo kit is just the start of it. Engine management, catch can set up, suspension, brakes, exhaust, wheels/tyres, gauges, tuning, drive shafts are just a few of the things you need to think about not to mention consumables oil, coolant, plugs, gear oil etc. depends how you want to do it really mate but I used a third of your budget on machine work on the engine alone.