Recent content by themanfrombeantown

I figured it out. Turned out to be the MAP sensor. I had checked that, but it wasn't the actually the sensor itself but a flaky contact in the connector to the sensor. Respliced and all is good. Thanks for those who viewed/helped.

Update, fuel and distributor are OK. It does hard start sometimes suggesting IACV, but idles fine when it does start. If I blip the throttle very fast it stumbles/stalls every time. This started after it sat for a while, maybe it got sticky. I'm stumped by the intermittence, I had a bad IACV and...

My swap was running great, was away for 2 weeks, got back. Now it stalls under throttle and is hard to start as well sometimes. -I have no vacuum leaks, checked them all -Checked TPS, it's fine -No blockages in air intake -No codes or lights It will be idling fine, and then the instant I...

The B18C has more torque, and it's noticeable, particularly when not in VTEC. However, y mom's 4 cyl. camry destroys both in that category. I get a little tired of the torqueless wonder moniker, the B18C doesn't exactly have stump pulling low end torque either. It also has the lowest (by a large...

I'm hoping not to have to pull the whole tranny again. I inspected it when doing my swap and it felt smooth and fine. It doesn't make noise, or grind when it is actually in contact with the clutch (clutch disengaged) and doing it's job. Just in the full return position, which is weird to me...

Having just done one I can tell you my experience: I spent about $3k US. That was for the longblock B16B and a bunch of refreshing (full suspension and linkages, axles, flywheel, brakes, etc., all used but refurbed). It's been almost 10mos. since I started, but I did a full rehab, brakes, susp...

So I just completed my b16b swap, got it mostly sorted. But now I'm getting a squeaking, squealing sound from the transmission. I've searched and get conflicting information on throw out bearing vs input shaft bearing. Symptoms are this: -With clutch engaged in neutral (parked) I hear...

For some reason I got LS crank in my head. You can't stroke the b16A for the above reasons. What you can do is get a GSR short block (same crank geometry as ITR), put the b16a head on, upgrade the valve train, get ITR rods/pistons, have the whole rotating assembly balanced and you have the "poor...

I'm in the US, can't get ek9 over here, and don't want a used susp. from a JDM importer. I know the yellows are the best. From what I've read and heard the Tokico's are good (not great), and the best in my price range.

I think I'm the only person out there looking to keep my stock ride height (minimal drop). My susp. is 11 years old and shot, I'm in the process of overhauling my car (00 Si) with a swap and want to replace the susp. but every kit out there lowers the ride height. I've decided on the Tokico...

A few things spring to mind. Sounds like a fueling/ignition problem, bad O2 sensor, injectors, etc. First, what ECU are you running? If it's the Si P2T I'd start there and get the right ECU and maps. Check your plugs to see if it's running rich or any cylinders don't appear to be firing. Also...

If the b16b is in good working order, sell it, buy an ITR. Over here the price diff form CTR to ITR is less than $1000US, you'll spend way more than that converting the CTR into a Type R. Unless you can literally do all the machine work and assembly yourself it's going to cost more, and there's...