H22a7


2Slow2Sensible

Proud EJ9 Owner
Donator
Joined
Feb 3, 2014
Messages
519
So the H22a7..

What common faults are there with these? What can be done for improved reliability (for track use) and what box would be best paired with it?

I've been told the H boxes are made of warm treacle, so the S80 was on my mind.

Bit of a broad question but hey :)


Cheers folks
 
There's nothing really wrong with them.

They have FRM liners, these aren't very good for boost, but aren't really any issue otherwise.

They're long stroke, so don't expect to get more than about 8200rpm out of them.

Crank pulleys wear out and wobble, and will eventually fall off. Mine's been doing it for probably 12,000 miles now.

There's nothing wrong with the boxes either, at least not out of the facelift (01-02) ATRs. The 99-01 ones had 5th gear syncro issues, but if you've got the box out of the car anyway it's not too much extra hassle to replace it. The box itself is quite a hefty unit but, despite common belief, the ratios are fine. They're actually very similar to the S4C ratios, the only significant difference is that 4th gear is quite long.

The myth about the ratios stems from the fact that the H22A7, as fitted in the ATR, has the smallest VTEC powerband of all the Type R engines at just 2200rpm. This makes it easy to drop out of VTEC and has everyone blaming the gearbox, when really a remap would sort it.

Regardless, I think the H2B conversion is a cheaper route to fitting one in a Civic/Integra than getting custom driveshafts and gear linkage made up to fit the U2Q7 box, so you just wouldn't use it anyway.
 
Cheers for the info Kozy, just seriously considering dropping one into a EK hatch for track use.
Would preferably want to keep it N/A so it just seems like the best route to go for, avoiding the B18/K boosted options.

Anyway thanks again pal, I need to do tonnes more research but so far it seems to be the best route.

Any idea of what prices I'd be looking at for the engine? (I want a B series box anyway)
 
There's one for sale for £300 near me and I'm down to wetherby quite often if you needed it brought down :nice:
 
In all honesty I don't really know what they're worth but £300 sounds a bit cheap, I'd suspect it probably needs a bit of a refresh.

They can make good power NASP, as much as K20 really, if not more. One guy on the ATR forum has one putting out 284bhp and 191lbft. :nice:
 
That H22a7 has 160k on the clocks, stem seals need replacing and it smokes on vtec.
 
Do the right thing and buy my engine ull never look near a h22 if u had it :)
 
From what I have read the FRM liners are stronger than Iron the reason they don't like boost is because of the ringlands, the earlier h22 blocks are closed deck and better for boost, but if the bore's are in good condition just a new set of rings and you will ready to go.
 
What sort of work has he done? Impressive figures.

Quite a bit, can't remember all of it but was definitely head work, Skunk2 Pro2 cams & gears, lightweight rods, high compression pistons etc. Proper job, I bet it cost a pretty penny.
 
You can get enough out of them NA for sure. Will beast a B20 and everyone loves those in a Civic. :)
 
In all honesty I don't really know what they're worth but £300 sounds a bit cheap, I'd suspect it probably needs a bit of a refresh.

I'd always do things like stem seals, skim etc when replacing an engine anyway. for the sake of a little bit more it gives you better peace of mind imo.
 
Yeh I agree, I did say an engine out jobby is an automatic engine inspection jobby either way :)
 
Karleg6 should be able to help you, he currently has the fastest fwd car in Ireland over a 1/4 mile and it is a h22 h2b with not a whole lot of work done. He uses it as a drag/track car and it handles itself on both fronts. I wouldn't personally do the h22 swap without a h2b with it.

He has a build thread on here he bumped recently have a look.
 
I'd always do things like stem seals, skim etc when replacing an engine anyway. for the sake of a little bit more it gives you better peace of mind imo.

Actually I'd go the other way.
Never open an engine unless you have cause to, they will generally be the most reliable this way.
 
I have all the tools and access to a proper garage anyway so I'd love to take it apart :)
 
Back
Top