How to fix brake judder caused by pad-imprint


EK9turbo

its a rush!
Joined
Jan 17, 2008
Messages
2,174
Information on the most common cause of brake-judder and how to fix it

If the brake judder is the build up of brake pad material on the disc then this will fix it. I encourage customers of mine to do the same thing to bed the brakes in faster if theyre going to their next track event soon after fitment.

Location
find a long quiet road, preferably in an industrial estate with little traffic

Proceedure.

At between 70-90 brake very hard down to about 5mph WITHOUT STOPPING then bring your speed back up and repeat! You need to do this 8-10 times then simply roll your car to a stop WITHOUT using the brakes as they will be very hot by now. DONT use the handbrake, once youve stopped put it in gear with the engine off.

Relax and let it cool down for 10 minutes.

Then drive off braking gentlyfor the first couple of miles then test. Problem solved every time,

People get this alot too when they over heat the pads (glazed) and or brake very hard to a stop at traffic lights. Then you get a BURNED on imprint of the pad shape onto the disc. This uneven layer of material stuck in the disc is what gives you the brake judder.

let me know how you get on :nice:


Notes:
*Cheap blueprint/pattern parts/econo ebc or similar pads WILL glaze over with this proceedure, factory pads wont. Just to bear in mind.

*Harder the pad/disc setup the more you MAY have to do it to get rid of the juddering. Most track pads wont give you this problem though because of their temperature range

*If pedal travel has been greatly increased after a track-day and your brake system is in mechanically-great health then this is a sure sign youve boiled the fluid. I give my customers a free brake-fluid test that measure the ammountof water in the fluid and also indicated if it has exceeded its boiling point. This test is with a handheld machine and takes barely a minute overally :nice:

*If you have braided brake lines and they dont have a heatshrink cover then make sure you inspect them periodically. The factories dont use braied lines without a sheathe as dirt and grit gets between the braid and the teflon tube then before you know it you get a hydraulic leak from the damaged PTFE liner. !

*using the wrong kind of brake fluid (like silicone based fluids that are very hygroscopic) in your car or mixing fluids without a pressure flush can leave you with worn/leaving seals! Most topend racing brake fluids have to be changed every event because of this! which is why its good to find a happy medium for the street

:nice:
 
Wicked write up as always Will, much appreciated mate!! Gonna have to some see you when I'm next feeling flush..
 
I remember you telling me about this before,

much more fun and quicker than the old skool way of gently bedding in new discs and pads:nice:

top info:nice:
 
Thanks guys, tbh Ive been struggling for time alateley. Ive got pics ready to do a few writeups for the forum. Including caliper rebuild guide for complete teardown/rebuild of rears/fronts.
 
Thanks guys, tbh Ive been struggling for time alateley. Ive got pics ready to do a few writeups for the forum. Including caliper rebuild guide for complete teardown/rebuild of rears/fronts.

Nice one Will, really appreciate the time you put into the writeups for this place!. Is there any chance you have one in the pipeline for brake fluid & clutch fluid flush/change?

I've been doing a little reading up on the procedure but have come across some conflicting information - would be nice to get the low down from someone you know you can trust rather than some random website!!
 
Yeah Ill do one in with the caliper rebuild thread. Although I use a pump operated pressure bleeder and a vacuum unit, Ill do a manual bleeding proceedure writeup as it varies with the workshop tools. No Problem :nice:
 
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