Fuel pressure Regulator...


vtecroadhog

Power of Dreams
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Hi all, going to fit all the following bits this comming month...:nice:

Spoon 70mm t/b (still to decide weather fitting or not :confused:),
Mugen intake,
Excedy stage 2 clutch,
Excedy 10lb flywheel,
Spoon mounts...

already hve 4-1 Mugen style header (hopefully soon replacing for 4-2-1 5Zigen),
De-cat,
Spoon b-pipe,
Spoon Street type back box...

Now, i was thinking on fitting a Fuel Pressure Regulator too, iam not 100% on what this does but i hve an idea. This should allow me regulate the amount of fuel the engine is now on, after these after market items hve all been fitted alterating stock setup...as it has a dial witht he corresponding pressure.

Hve any of you fitted this to their motors..? pls can i hve some feedback on this item as iam soon fitting all @ long last!!! :clap:

[Sard is a Japanese based manufacturer that specialises in tuning products for Japanese based vehicles. Their most popular products include the Sard injectors and accessories. Web Site http://www.sard.co.jp ]
 

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Why the doubt over the Spoon 70mm tb? Do you have an aftermarket inlet manifold? (In the same boat about the regulator so cant help there!)
 
if you have stock injectors then get a fuel pump and regulator :nice: if you have aftermarket fuel pump and injectors AND something to tune with then you dont need a regulator.
 
if you have stock injectors then get a fuel pump and regulator :nice: if you have aftermarket fuel pump and injectors AND something to tune with then you dont need a regulator.

hve stock internals... fuel pump? :pics:

any you can advice me on...:confused:
 
and i said stock injectors not internals :nice:

well thats what i meant... :eek: :D



would i really need one..? :confused: if i just fit pressure regulator, would stock pump hold or be enough... as i reackon stock pump has some margin to regulate true?

take to account light mods on me B16A2...

the ebay link to a pump was useful to see description of pump + installation bits...:thanks: however they only ship USA.
found SARD pump which i could purchase + ship together with regulator...:nice:
 
if your just raising fuel pressure by 5psi or less im sure the stock pump could handle that :nice: I LOVE SARD the have the best looking fpr!!!
 
if your just raising fuel pressure by 5psi or less im sure the stock pump could handle that :nice: I LOVE SARD the have the best looking fpr!!!

thanks blinx...:nice: i will go for the stock pump and get hold of those SARD goodies. . .:D

will post future news regarding the uprated pump or not...:nerv:
 
Hi, @ long last i ordered the fuel regulator! quick delivery frm nengun & items look good too :nice:

post some pics first, will post more when i fit it etc...

ABCD0005.jpg


ABCD0006-1.jpg


ive been told to purchase a wideband sensor to help me tune for better gains! any one hve this?
 
what sort of gains would this give. would it require a remap to take full advantage

fpr does not really help you gain hp on its own, its just to control fuel pressure which is an important part of tunning...
 
Yeh if the inlet size of the TB is 60-62mm, then it's fine for a B16. Just don't go bigger than 62mm on the inlet, SPOON TB seems to promote top end flow.
 
Yeh if the inlet size of the TB is 60-62mm, then it's fine for a B16. Just don't go bigger than 62mm on the inlet, SPOON TB seems to promote top end flow.

i never got round to fit my Spoon 70mm T/B, decided to stick with my stock 60mm one... however swapped it with my m8's DC2 T/B (62mm) instead!

soon will b fitting the sard fpr, vibrant 4-2-1, itr 62mm t/b, & hoping for a better responce @ low rpm too (daily drive)... not too happy with current performance! :(

anybody hve a link to the purpose of the wideband sensor!!! any recommendation..?

:thanks:
 
i never got round to fit my Spoon 70mm T/B, decided to stick with my stock 60mm one... however swapped it with my m8's DC2 T/B (62mm) instead!

soon will b fitting the sard fpr, vibrant 4-2-1, itr 62mm t/b, & hoping for a better responce @ low rpm too (daily drive)... not too happy with current performance! :(

anybody hve a link to the purpose of the wideband sensor!!! any recommendation..?

:thanks:

Is it an EK9 you have?

4-2-1 headers should give good gains, TB isn't necessary until cams, but wouldn't do much with stock cams anyway. Just watch your intake, I remember you had the J's correct? You need cold air.
 
Is it an EK9 you have?

4-2-1 headers should give good gains, TB isn't necessary until cams, but wouldn't do much with stock cams anyway. Just watch your intake, I remember you had the J's correct? You need cold air.

naa not a '9'! :(

EK4 with Mugen intake, soon the vibrant 4-2-1, spoon de-cat/b-pipe/rear box (street type) & itr t/b and my lately recieved Sard fpr... those r the mods regarding figure gains!

then iam running a stageII Excedy clutch with lightend flywheel... couple other bits.

'jugbugz'/'blinx' know anything of the wideband sensor :confused:
 
Ask blinx about wideband sensor, he should know more.

Hmm, you don't need a decat, just save the money and mother nature. no difference.
 
You dont need a fuel pump yet...
A fuel pressure regulator is a cheap way of getting more fuel into the engine but its not the ideal approach. The best approach is engine management like Hondata and bigger injectors (if your appllication requires it)!

Heres some great info for you from one of my IB articles..

Do not buy a fuel pump for your car unless your car meets these criteria. First, your car is over 300 Wheel Horsepower. Second, your car has an FMU (Fuel management unit) that comes with some turbo kits. It raises the fuel pressure on your car per each pound of boost, and your stock fuel pump won’t work. That’s it. Don’t buy a fuel pump unless you meet these 2 criteria. And if your forced to buy one, always get an in tank one, never an inline one that goes into the engine bay. Those are dangerous and should be avoided. The goal here is we want to keep the fuel system completely stock. Avoid the ridiculous fitting nightmare and the steel braid lines that come undone frequently, leak, and that cost a fortune. They do nothing but create problems. Stock doesn’t have any problems, so take advantage of it.
a. Always upgrade your injectors when you need more power, not your fuel pump. Generally, if you’re under 350 WHP you can get away with RC 550’s, fewer than 300 you can use RC 440’s, and fewer than 220 you can use RC 310’s. Stock Honda injectors from say a GSR or B16A can only make in the high 100’s with a fuel pressure regulator and it’s not recommended. RC 310’s are your best choice with a fuel pressure regulator if you don’t have management. You can turn down the fuel pressure until your air fuel is good again. With management, say Hondata, Hondata - Honda ECU Modification and Enhancement it’s smart for any all motor car to get RC 440’s. Not 310’s. The 440’s can handle a turbo later, or can handle a much larger HP number if you go that way. They also have a way better resale demand and price used.


And just to justify what im saying... my car was tuned at 11psi = 352.8hp and makes 14-15psi in 5th gear which probly works out at 450+ at an estimate..... and I still use the original fuel pressure regulator! but with a Walbro fuel pump high pressure/volume (255litres per hour capable) and RC750cc injectors.

You can see my factory regulator on the right of this pic. And the only reason I put a golden eagle fuel-rail on is because I wanted a guage in the middle of it so I can tell when I need a new fuel filter!


...to explain how it works you have a fuel feed thats from your pump, goes to the black fuel-filter on your firewall then to the fuel rail and to your injectors. Factory pressure runs between 38psi-46psi. Your pump pressurises your fuel rail at this pressure and your injectors work on a 'duty-cylcel' controled by the ecu, i.e. theyre opening and closing for X milliseconds to allow the correct amout of fuel into the cylinders. controlled by the ecu. The excess pressure return to the tank through the FPR and down that return line. The other line on the FPR is a vacuum line, engines make alot of vac at low rpm (about 15"inches in water) and less vac the more the throttle is opened. and no VAC AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE.

so at low throttle the vacuum is OPENING the FPR allowing more fuel to return. at full throttle where more fuel is needed; the intake-manifold isnt giving the FPR any vacuum to open it (remembering the FPR is a bypass valve that allows excess fuelpressure to return to the tank). So on a turbo car like mine, the manifold is under pressure and of-course the FPR has a vacuum line that goes to the manifold so that too sees this pressure and this pressure holds the return SHUT.

For tuning with fuel management.... your controlling the injectors duty cycle to control how much fuel goes in to the cylinders.

Turbo kits without engine management or injectors work as above with a FMU, fuel management unit.
 
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