Lightweight Crank Pulley - Opinions?


forestfighter

forestfighter

ZR-TEC RALLY TEAM
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Jun 13, 2008
Messages
315
Hi guys,

Possibly a subject that has been asked many times already but every bit of info I’ve found seems a bit muddied.

I have forged rods and pistons for my high comp N/A build with a lightweight flywheel, paddle clutch but OEM B16 crank/ancill pulley. The whole lot is going to get balanced before assembly but before I did I wanted people’s opinions on getting a lightweight crank pulley?

Another thing to consider is thati don’t really want to spend £200 + on a fancy fluid type one but on the other hand have my speculations on the eBay anodised £30 ones.

Please could people add their 2p’s? I understand that less inertia will help the cause but has this been proven? Surely having something that is a proportionate weight to the flywheel has got to be a plus??

Thanks,

John
 
I would only ever use either an OEM one or fancy fluid one :) I don't see a £30 ebay pulley dampening vibrations at 9k, you might gain a tiny bit of response but I would much rather have the safety of a OEM pulley you know does the job right!
 
I completely agree with you in terms of OEM is often hard to beat. However, the OEM one hardly looks like an engineering marvel, pretty basic design really.
 
I can't remember if the OEM ones are rubber bonded? I think they are, what are you using the car for?
 
Yea no P.S.... Only runs your alternator. Had one on the ek9 will be getting another, oem quality part
 
I am worried thaty n1 pulley is a potential reason why my number one big end let go.
 
Im pretty sure the N1 is only for use upto 8,500rpm.

I have mine and didn't notice any difference.
 
Ati race pulley,if it's not a standard engine a fluid one is a must IMO,I had a n1 pulley on my car and the mapper strongly advised I got a properly balanced one and I wasn't going to risk my fully built engine over that good thread tho it's an item commonly overlooked when building an engine
 
I think the N1 was designed for the race cars, fine if you're going to strip your engine every season, not great for a road going car.
 
Spend the money on the ati mate better have as little vibration threw that crank as possible
 
The N1 pulleys seem like a good buy for the money.

Only thing that I have read is that they aren't for road cars that sit at a constant RPM for extended periods and that they may cause issue's on B18 applications. But otherwise great on B16 track only applications. I will be getting one soon.
 
Want to buy the one ive removed? :) haha.

The stock pulley has rubber in it.
 
I've thought about fitting the N1 pulley when I get around fitting an electric PS pump, but I'm not sure it's a good idea. As far as I know the N1 pulley was designed for the B16B, which is why B18s with their much lower rod/stroke ratio might not like them and end up spinning a bearing. Considering how much damage an unbalanced pulley can do I don't feel like it's worth the risk. Spending £££ on a ati harmonic damper is out of question really.....
 
rs250nut said:
Ati damper or don't bother and leave it stock.
Click to expand...

I concur. :)

The problems these cause are not vibrations but harmonics (obviously, it's in the name) which happen at certain RPM. A race/track/rally car never sits at constant RPM for very long so it's not a bit issue, but a road car does and that's when bearings get destroyed.
 
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