N1 Crank Pulley


carbon

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Jun 1, 2009
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Did a quick search on this, decided im going to run the EK9 without air conditioning/power steering, couldnt seem to find a part number for it though?

Anyone have the part number for the N1 Pulley?

Cheers, Sam.
 
I don't have a part number but you can get it from a number of places like Options Auto Salon - Sport Compact Car Performance Parts icbmotorsports.com or ebay.com, try to get one that comes with the alternator belt though as you will need a new one. Also DO NOT use this if you plan to ever stroke your motor to 1.8, this part is ONLY designed to work on b16b.
 
blinx... why is it so that a b18cR can;t use lighten crank pulley?

There have been long threads about this topic during the beginning fazes of the forum, it was concluded that the longer stroke of the b18c causes the engine to have slightly higher crank vibration/harmonics what ever you want to call it. End of the day it is believed that these increased harmonics of the longer stroke engines combined with the N1 pulley (which does not have the rubber isolator on it) can cause oil pump failure or premature bearing wear. The b18c pulley has the isolator on it, the OEM b16b one does also but the N1 does not. How true all this is, well its hard to say, but numerous people have reported oil pump failure shortly after using the N1 pulley on lsvtec and b18c engines.

If you must have a single pulley on a 1.8+ engine its better to get the b18c pulley and have the extra two pulleys machined off and have it professionally balanced. Hope this makes sense.
 
There have been long threads about this topic during the beginning fazes of the forum, it was concluded that the longer stroke of the b18c causes the engine to have slightly higher crank vibration/harmonics what ever you want to call it. End of the day it is believed that these increased harmonics of the longer stroke engines combined with the N1 pulley (which does not have the rubber isolator on it) can cause oil pump failure or premature bearing wear. The b18c pulley has the isolator on it, the OEM b16b one does also but the N1 does not. How true all this is, well its hard to say, but numerous people have reported oil pump failure shortly after using the N1 pulley on lsvtec and b18c engines.

If you must have a single pulley on a 1.8+ engine its better to get the b18c pulley and have the extra two pulleys machined off and have it professionally balanced. Hope this makes sense.

i used the N1 on 3 different setups and all 3 are still running without problems, i have never heard of issues with the N1, hell my friend has been running built ls turbo for almost 4 years with the n1 and has had no issues:dance:
 
There have been long threads about this topic during the beginning fazes of the forum, it was concluded that the longer stroke of the b18c causes the engine to have slightly higher crank vibration/harmonics what ever you want to call it. End of the day it is believed that these increased harmonics of the longer stroke engines combined with the N1 pulley (which does not have the rubber isolator on it) can cause oil pump failure or premature bearing wear. The b18c pulley has the isolator on it, the OEM b16b one does also but the N1 does not. How true all this is, well its hard to say, but numerous people have reported oil pump failure shortly after using the N1 pulley on lsvtec and b18c engines.

If you must have a single pulley on a 1.8+ engine its better to get the b18c pulley and have the extra two pulleys machined off and have it professionally balanced. Hope this makes sense.

I agree with Blinx all the way even to the point of suggesting a stock harmonic balancer being machined off and rebalanced like the one sold by INLINEFOUR.COM - Mon.~Sat. 9:30am~6:30pm PST - 11400 Knott Street, Garden Grove, CA 92841 here -----> click me.

Always with good info Blinx gotta hand it to ya man. :nice:
 
i used the N1 on 3 different setups and all 3 are still running without problems, i have never heard of issues with the N1, hell my friend has been running built ls turbo for almost 4 years with the n1 and has had no issues:dance:

Fully built/balanced/blue printed engines will be less likely to have problems, and just because a few people have success does not mean all do, remember i have been doing this Honda thing for 9 years now... You end up seeing a lot of things along the way and learn some trends. It seems hit or miss, i had one on my b16b but when i got a b16a block i used the OEM b16 pulley.

I agree with Blinx all the way even to the point of suggesting a stock harmonic balancer being machined off and rebalanced like the one sold by INLINEFOUR.COM - Mon.~Sat. 9:30am~6:30pm PST - 11400 Knott Street, Garden Grove, CA 92841 here -----> click me.

Always with good info Blinx gotta hand it to ya man. :nice:

Thank you kind sir, i see you being helpful often also :nice: Many times i have not posted in a thread because i see you have it all sorted, thank you :bow:
 
what about using lighten flywheel then? will the harmonics/vibration of the 18c be and issue here too?
 
what about using lighten flywheel then? will the harmonics/vibration of the 18c be and issue here too?

No that is not an issue at all. Both OEM and after market flywheels are just solid pieces of metal, however the OEM pulley has a rubber damper built into it while the N1 does not, that is where the issue is :nice:
 
Fully built/balanced/blue printed engines will be less likely to have problems, and just because a few people have success does not mean all do, remember i have been doing this Honda thing for 9 years now... You end up seeing a lot of things along the way and learn some trends. It seems hit or miss, i had one on my b16b but when i got a b16a block i used the OEM b16 pulley.



Thank you kind sir, i see you being helpful often also :nice: Many times i have not posted in a thread because i see you have it all sorted, thank you :bow:

i've been going at it for 7, but i agree with luck with somethings and no luck with others, my friends fully built single cam turbo ran for 5 years strait, and another friend had one that was fully built with a smaller turbo and it blew in less than 2 months
 
our H2 racecar uses the super damper from ATI

race-honda-small.jpg


ATI - Super Dampers® for Honda Engines

ATI - Crankshaft Dampers 101

some more info:
ATI - Tuning the ATI Super Damper® for Maximum Performance

The stock pulley is pretty good, but over time, as others have mentioned, dry rotting can occur on the "rubber band" and this renders the damper ineffective to nearly useless. Face it, the youngest B-series VTEC is from 2001 and by my math, that's old enough to get a proper damper.
 
Anyone got the part code for the different belt? or a good aftermarket make one?
 
i've been going at it for 7, but i agree with luck with somethings and no luck with others, my friends fully built single cam turbo ran for 5 years strait, and another friend had one that was fully built with a smaller turbo and it blew in less than 2 months

Yeah, some things are just weird like that, my high comp turbo setup blew up after 20 passes while so many people have successful high comp turbo builds, 7 years is a long time, welcome to being an old man lol jk ;)

our H2 racecar uses the super damper from ATI

race-honda-small.jpg


ATI - Super Dampers® for Honda Engines

ATI - Crankshaft Dampers 101

some more info:
ATI - Tuning the ATI Super Damper® for Maximum Performance

The stock pulley is pretty good, but over time, as others have mentioned, dry rotting can occur on the "rubber band" and this renders the damper ineffective to nearly useless. Face it, the youngest B-series VTEC is from 2001 and by my math, that's old enough to get a proper damper.

Never thought of that, excellent point however!
 
Has anyone installed the ATI super damper? Need a crankshaft pulley for a B18C and was thinking about this one but wanted some info from anyone running it?
 
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