Willwood brake upgrade. Anygood?


J

jdmek

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Apr 16, 2008
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Hi. Time has come to upgrade my brakes. Been looking around and come across some set ups i think would work but was curious about the willwood set freaky parts do. Just need some feedback from the guys using this setup.
I have seen a few second hand kits for sale recently so a causious

Any feedback welcome.
 
Few guys on dc2 forum running freaky parts willwood setups, seems to be good feedback on them.... Think he does 2 kits 1 which retains 282 disks and a bigger kit think around 300mm with 2 piece disks ....
 
I've got the big kit , set up for racing pads are not to good for race road only .
 
I'm ordering a couple more kits next week if you're interested? Could do a bit of a deal on one for you :)
 
What improvement we can get with wilwood compared to type-r 282 setup?

Thanks
 
Best upgrade I have on my car! Defo worth the £££
 
I can't comment on the difference between a 282 setup as I came from 262.
I use the kit on my track car and have no complaints they look good, offer great braking performance, great feel and the pads r pretty cheap for them too.
 
You feel difference because of the disc size, so 262 vs 282 > 282 wins. But if we stay at the same 282, just we change calipers into Willwood?
 
Stakis said:
You feel difference because of the disc size, so 262 vs 282 > 282 wins. But if we stay at the same 282, just we change calipers into Willwood?
Click to expand...

No, the disc size actually makes very little difference on it's own. The 262/282 brakes have different calipers though, 262s get a 54mm piston and the 282s get a 57mm piston. That's a fair whack more area and has a big effect on pedal travel and feel, brake force and balance.

If you kept the piston area the same, a four pot caliper offer small improvements in things like reduced weight, better feel and quicker release (less brake drag), quick pad changes and cheaper pads. On and they look awesome.

The real changes are actually very small, but what they do is give you a **** load more confidence in them, which is actually worth a lot more than a brake kit which gives you a huge gain in brake force. That just makes them hard to modulate and messes up the balance so you have less confidence in them going into corners.
 
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Thank you for this info, makes me feel happy with my choice in going to 4 pots :)

Kozy said:
No, the disc size actually makes very little difference on it's own. The 262/282 brakes have different calipers though, 262s get a 54mm piston and the 282s get a 57mm piston. That's a fair whack more area and has a big effect on pedal travel and feel, brake force and balance.

If you kept the piston area the same, a four pot caliper offer small improvements in things like reduced weight, better feel and quicker release (less brake drag), quick pad changes and cheaper pads. On and they look awesome.

The real changes are actually very small, but what they do is give you a **** load more confidence in them, which is actually worth a lot more than a brake kit which gives you a huge gain in brake force. That just makes them hard to modulate and messes up the balance so you have less confidence in them going into corners.
Click to expand...
 
My brake kit sucks. - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum

A buddy of mine that road races says that his fellows track guys told him not to go with Wilwood because the pistons can seize and that the calipers tend to bend under extreme braking pressure (hence your situation) based on their experiences. There are a lot of good companies that i haven't heard anything bad about. Brembo, Stoptech, Rotora, AP Racing (User Blazed has these on his car, maybe you could pm him on it), or maybe an OEM caliper like a TL-S (Brembo) which would require some modification. I would also PM Username "BrakeExpert". He's the most knowledgable guy on these forums that i know of about brakes and i've learned a lot from him. Hope this helps.
 
DBA disks are the best disks on the planet, and in the universe.
 
tama666 said:
A buddy of mine that road races says that his fellows track guys told him not to go with Wilwood because the pistons can seize and that the calipers tend to bend under extreme braking pressure (hence your situation) based on their experiences
Click to expand...


I do like the internet :D
Something I found said a friend of his said not to use something because someone told him something once :lol:

Jeez, if this was the case I'd never go out the house or even get out of bed.

I've been running Wilwood calipers on my cars for a good few years. I've also used Brembos, AP Racing and OEM. I also sell a good few Wilwood kits every year - along with AP and Brembo too.

Some Wilwoods don't have dust boots. Those rubber covers over the aluminium pistons to stop the piston getting dirty and corroded. Instead they're fitted with Stainless steel pistons which don't corrode.
They still get dirty (obviously) so when it comes time to change the pads you don't just shove the pistons and all the dirt on them back into the caliper - thus gumming them up and screwing the piston seal up with dirt, you give them a quick clean.

Other Wilwood calipers do have dust seals which help to protect the piston from getting dirty, but like all dust seals they'll melt if you throw enough heat at them.

Flexing is something every caliper manufacturer has been trying to address for the last 50 years. The inherent design of a caliper means you will always experience some flex, it's physics. Only very expensive Monoblock calipers reduce this but they're not usually found on production cars.
 
Reference from k20a.org:

:wow:

I`m having issues with my wilwood discs.

Running a DA powered by a K20A(230whp) on 225/50/16 RS-3(mental, i know) with wilwoods off the shelf 4 piston kit(12.19 inch 2 piece disc)

So my problem is that the discs just plain suck. Basically the rotor cant absorb and dissipate heat quickly enough and simply overheats. This causes distortion and vibration. Never any fade.

Once cool the vibration goes away. I made ducts using the brake duct inlet in my front lip, 3 inch ducting along with an outlet between the calliper and hub. It blows air directly at the centre of the disc. Where it should. It definitely helped the situation because it takes a few extra laps to overheat the disc and the vibration isn`t as bad but ultimately the disc still overheats and there is accelerated pad wear. Yay to cracking discs in no time...

BTW I'm using the regular casting with straight vanes. Yea, I know the heavier casting with directional vanes might help or cure the issue but at over 4 times the cost per disc it isn't an option.

What are my options? A different brand hat/disc that miraculously fits my current calliper and bracket? A solid disc of a different size along with a new bracket?

Heres a picture for fun

IMG_2404_zpsb447b6da.jpg


:lol:
 
No information to what Pads used or what rear Brake setup is on the car?
 
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